Tuesday, November 30, 2010

A Classic: Chocolate Chip Cookies

I heard a really interesting lecture by a Wesleyan professor at the beginning of this semester about the concept of a "perfect" recipe, and how it's actually impossible. He said good cooks can follow a recipe, but know when to deviate and improvise and ignore what the paper tells them.

Normally, I agree with him. But I would have to make an exception for these cookies, which are truly, in my opinion, perfect. Browned butter gives them a caramel-y flavor, and makes the texture soft and chewy, even after they've cooled. Every time I make them, people are amazed at how good they are. And they're pretty easy, too! The recipe is kind of picky, but even if you don't feel like doing some of the really specific bits, they still turn out great. (I, for one, never ever ever time how long I whisk for, or how long I let the batter sit, I bake several trays at a time, use crappy brown sugar...) And another great thing about it is that you don't have to thaw the butter, since you brown it anyway!

The recipe is from Cook's Illustrated, passed along by Full House alum and baking master Erin Kelly.

PERFECT CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

Makes [WAY MORE THAN] 16 cookies. Published May 1, 2009. From ATK Books.

Avoid using a nonstick skillet to brown the butter; the dark color of the nonstick coating makes it difficult to gauge when the butter is browned. Use fresh, moist brown sugar instead of hardened brown sugar, which will make the cookies dry. This recipe works with light brown sugar, but the cookies will be less full-flavored. For our winning brand of chocolate chips, see related tasting.

INGREDIENTS

1 3/4cups unbleached all-purpose flour (8 3/4 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
14 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 3/4 sticks)
1/2cup granulated sugar (3 1/2 ounces)
3/4cups packed dark brown sugar (5 1/4 ounces) (see note)
1 teaspoon table salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1large egg
1large egg yolk
1 1/4cups semisweet chocolate chips or chunks (see note)
3/4cup chopped pecan or walnuts, toasted (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 large (18- by 12-inch) baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour and baking soda together in medium bowl; set aside.

  2. 2. Heat 10 tablespoons butter in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat until melted, about 2 minutes. Continue cooking, swirling pan constantly until butter is dark golden brown and has nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and, using heatproof spatula, transfer browned butter to large heatproof bowl. Stir remaining 4 tablespoons butter into hot butter until completely melted.

  3. 3. Add both sugars, salt, and vanilla to bowl with butter and whisk until fully incorporated. Add egg and yolk and whisk until mixture is smooth with no sugar lumps remaining, about 30 seconds. Let mixture stand 3 minutes, then whisk for 30 seconds. Repeat process of resting and whisking 2 more times until mixture is thick, smooth, and shiny. Using rubber spatula or wooden spoon, stir in flour mixture until just combined, about 1 minute. Stir in chocolate chips and nuts (if using), giving dough final stir to ensure no flour pockets remain.

  4. 4. Divide dough into 16 portions, each about 3 tablespoons (or use #24 cookie scoop). Arrange 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheets, 8 dough balls per sheet. (Smaller baking sheets can be used, but will require 3 batches.)

  5. 5. Bake cookies 1 tray at a time until cookies are golden brown and still puffy, and edges have begun to set but centers are still soft, 10 to 14 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway through baking. Transfer baking sheet to wire rack; cool cookies completely before serving.

Happy baking!

Inaugural Post!

It seems like everyone and their brother has a blog or three these days. Writing about my relatively uninteresting life on teh internetz has always seemed self-indulgent to me, but I love reading food blogs, and I while away many an hour bookmarking recipes to try. It occurred to me that this would be a great way to share my favorite recipes (and ways of doctoring them) with friends and family.

Personally, I don't consider myself a competent enough cook to improvise most recipes. But I do tend to stray from the printed page if only because I am generally missing 20-50% of the ingredients called for. Hey, the campus grocery store is a trek, and overpriced, and I like to tell myself that experimentation and a lack of sufficient resources is how great recipes are created.

So here goes. Enjoy!